Trying to find a toolkit for those newfangled, fancy, animated GUI, I stumbled across Clutter which seems to have a few tricks up its sleeve.
It uses GTK and autoconf/automake but offers a sliver of hope since it has a win32 backend, so I was banging my head against various pieces of code trying to get it to compile. (I even stumbled across Wascana, a Eclipse CDT/MinGW package) but that didn't help either.)
Nevertheless, the nice folks on the mailing list pointed me towards OABuild which is, believe it or not, a complete set of vcproj/sln files for a lot of GTK libs, including Clutter.
And it did compile. I'll go play with it tomorrow and see if I can get the python bindings up and running too.